How to fit a wireless reversing camera to a Peugeot 308SW Estate

If you don't have a AUTO-VOX or Ring camera system, or a right-hand-drive Peugeot 308SW, then this web page may help but you'll need to ignore the car- / camera-specific bits. The general (non-specific) bits I've coloured red below.

N.B. This web page is only intended to help you work on your car, but I don't take any responsibility for any damage or injuries which result.

I suggest that you read through the whole of this page before starting work.

I have prepared this web page some time after doing the fitting and taking the photos. Therefore I may have forgotten some stages. Please let me know if you spot any I've missed.

In my case, I first fitted a Ring system but this died and I replaced it with an AUTO-VOX digital system - which works fine so far.

If you haven't bought yourself a camera system yet, then consider the following points:

Digital transmission is less likely to have problems than analogue,

Having the transmitter seperate from the camera means that you can place the transmitter inside metal panels, etc. so as to give a clearer route for the signal to reach the monitor.

A low-light-level camera takes less power to run and may well cause fewer problems with your car's fussy electronics.

Fitting the camera, etc. can be quite tricky (see below) unless you can fit it near your car's reversing light and in the same part of the car (ie. not when the lamp is on one panel and the camera will be on an opening door). You may want to pay someone to do the fitting.

You may wish to consider getting parking sensors as well since the camera helps but doesn't show what you are going to hit at the sides.

And now:

Stage A - Select where to mount the camera.

Stage B - Select a power source for the camera.

The rest of the camera fitting notes assume mounting the camera by the number plate and powering it off the cable to the reversing light.

Stage C - Removing the panels from inside the rear door.

Stage D - Attaching the camera.

Stage E - The earth connection.

Stage F - Running the live cable through the rear door.

Stage G - Running the live cable into the car body and down.

At this point the car becomes undrivable so ensure you have sufficient time.

Stage H - Removing the light cluster.

Stage J - Connecting the live cable.

Stage K - Testing and reassembly.

Stage L - Select where to mount the monitor.

Tools, etc. required.

Inspection light.

Knife.

Permanent marker.

Clippers.

Cable-ties - around five of over three inch long.

Self-tapping screws - two of around one inch long - or pop rivets.

Electric drill with metal-cutting bits.

Small flat-head screwdriver.

Screw-driver set with:

Phillips head.

T20 and T30 heads.

10mm nut driver.

Bolster or other sturdy, flat and wide device for levering off panels.

A foot or so of stiff but bendable wire to use for fishing inside the car's panels. Alternatively a pair of kitchen tongs may work.

Ten feet or so of single-core wire, eg. Ring 5 amp cable.

Plus, preferably:

Soldering iron or, if not, a 12V bulb.

a small, medium or large assistant.

Camera location.

The first stage is to decide where the camera is going.

I have screwed my camera to the tailgate, upside down, projecting below the number plate. This is what the images below show.

Points to bear in mind include:

The provided sticky strip does not give a very firm fix and allows a thief to pull the camera off.

If possible, a less noticeable spot makes it less likely to be nicked.

If you regularly have reversing problems with one side of the car, then you may wish to fit the camera towards that side.

It should not obscure the number plate. I found that this is what happens if you try fitting it above the number plate.

It should also not block any door-release catches, etc.

Fitting the Ring camera upside down means that the button is then on top and may leak, although this hasn't happened on mine yet. It also means that the camera cannot be angled downwards as much as you may wish. Some camera systems do not allow for the camera to be mounted upside down.

Choosing a power source for the camera.

The obvious power source is the cable to the reversing light but you may wish to use something else eg. one which allows the camera to act as an extra rear-view "mirror". However, the camera will give a considerable amount of flare from bright lights and blur from rain.

A point to consider for other cars is that the power used by the camera may upset all those fancy electronic thingummies they design into cars these days.
It's advisable to test the whole thing before fitting and connecting it. As for this, there's no indication that the camera is operating until you start up the monitor.
It is worth fitting an extra LED in view from the front of the car, so that you can see when power is getting through to the camera. This will give a check that failure to operate isn't caused by the reversing light switch.

You need to consider how long the camera will run without overheating, etc. The Ring manual does not cover this.

As for which cable to use, the Haynes Guide is not much use since it doesn't tell you wire colours and doesn't even show the reversing light on the wiring diagram.

As a means of ensuring enough power reaches the camera, consider replacing the car's reverse light bulb with a (CANBUS-type) LED one. I have used ones bought via eBay.

The power source may need reconsidering if your car has a tow bar fitted.

Please consider this page a work-in-progress. If you find anything to add (or correct), please let me know - see the end of the page for contact details.

Fitting the camera:

I advise checking the gaps around panels before you remove any. Then you will know if you have refitted them correctly at that stage.

Screw / bolt / pop-rivet the camera in place to prevent it shaking loose or theft. Leave as little cable showing as possible to make it unusable if stolen.

Before fitting, it is worth connecting up the monitor and then the camera to your car's battery to check that they actually work. This will save you suspecting them if you don't get a picture when you have everything fitted.

If you have problems with the camera, try the helpful notes at Reversing Cameras UK Ltd.

Overview of wiring route.
The dotted blue line shows the route taken for the camera wiring, with the camera fitted above or below the number plate.
Stage C - Removing the panels from inside the rear door.
Step C-1. This is one of the fiddly little clips which you will find holding some of the panel. You will need to remove them by levering up the centre section and then pulling out the whole clip.
Step C-2. This is the wiper cover which is first to be removed. It just pulls up.
C-3. This is an inside view of the wiper cover.
Step C-4. Once the wiper mechanism cover is off you can get at the first bolt holding the main panel in place.
Step C-5. Now for the top panel which should just unclip, giving you access to the bolts holding the side panels - as shown. You will need to remove both side panels.
Step C-6. Here is an inside view of one of the side panels.
Step C-7. With the side panels off you can get at the first two of the bolts holding the main panel.
Step C-8. Here is one of those clips mentioned earlier, which you will need to remove from below the main panel.
Step C-9. You will also have to undo the bolts in the recesses. Now you can lever off the panel. An assistant will be a great help here.
C-10. This shows the main panel, removed, with its clips, etc.
Stage D - Attaching the camera.
Step D-1. Firstly, if there is one, remove the widget from around the cable and put it aside for refitting later. Select where you want to mount the camera, considering that you shouldn't (legally) block the view or lighting of your number plate and that you don't want to block the switch for opening the door. Consider which way up the camera will be fitted - some camera systems allow for converting the image if the camera is upside down but some (eg. my AUTO-VOX) do not. You may need to turn the camera within its mount if that is possible. If required, drill two holes in the camera backplate large enough to feed you screws (or pop-rivets, etc.) through. Now position the camera on the back door, over some masking tape, and mark the centre of the holes. Next, drill holes for the screws, etc. the correct size for them to bite into the metal. Do not slip and make a mess of your door! It's also a good idea to place a cloth inside the panel to catch the swarf. You will also need to drill another hole for the wire.
Step D-2. This shows the AUTO-VOX camera screwed in place (above the number plate position). You can see that washers fitted around the screw meant that drilling the backplate was not required. Make sure it ends up horizontal.
Step D-2a. This shows the Ring camera screwed in place (below the number plate position) - with silicone sealant around the various holes, etc. Make sure it ends up horizontal.
Step D-3a. This shows the AUTO-VOX camera in place, tilted down to allow a better view of the distance to another car and to show kerbs, etc.
Step D-3b. This shows the Ring camera in place - with a certain jaunty angle showing that I didn't get it quite level.
Step D-3c. This shows the cable from the camera, inside the door, where I have simply tied a knot to prevent potential thieves pulling the cable through.
Step D-4. Don't forget to refit the cable through the widget before connecting up.
Step D-5. Trim the supplied cable to long enough to reach the wiper. Be very careful doing this since the wires are very thin. Don't forget that you cannot shorten the cable between camera and transmitter (if your system has them seperate). Now is a good time to solder all the connections - it'll save trouble later on since the wires are usually very thin and give a poor connection. Connect the camera live wire to the end of wire you installed earlier, using a connecting block.
Stage E - The earth connection.
Step E-1. The wiper mounting bolts are 10mm. Loosen one bolt and fasten the earth wire under it.
Step E-2. Now use cable ties or gaffer tape to fix the wires in place - thus preventing any rattling. If your camera system has a separate transmitter then tape / clip it so that it is in a gap in the metal panelling and is vertical (to get the best signal).
Stage F - Running the live cable through the rear door. Now tuck the power lead into the side of the window, using gaffer tape and / or cable ties as required to keep it out of the way of the fixing clips for the cover panel.
Stage G - Running the live cable into the car body and down.
Step G-1. Unless you are very clever you will not be able to run the cable through the concertina tube which connects the door to the car body. Lever out the large grommet from wher the wires enter the car body. Drill a small hole towards the bottom of the grommet and feed the wire through it.
Step G-2. There is now an awkward panel inside the roof which you will need to feed the wire around and then down into the space over the headlining. The headlining needs to be eased out of the rubber seal at this point. The wire needs to be bent so as to be reachable with tongs (or very long thin fingers, etc.).
Step G-3. The side panel only needs easing out at the back in order to slide the wire behind it. However you do need to remove the T20 bolt near the luggage clip, which holds it in place.
Step G-4. Now unclip the toolkit cover.
Step G-5. The wire needs to be fed down in the side panels until it goes through into the toolkit area.
Step G-6. The inside mounting panel is attached witha 10mm bolt which needs to be loosened off. The toolkit frame does not seem to remove, but can be worked around.
Step G-7. Finally, for this stage, refit the large rubber grommet, above the door, and then clip the wire to the concertina tube with cable ties.
Stage H - Removing the light cluster.
Step H-1. Undo the left hand rear light cluster. This has two T30 bolts, as shown, which lock it to the car body. Start as you mean to go on and put them somewhere safe, ideally on a piece of paper with a note where they came from.
Step H-2. Ease the light cluster to the left and up. This will free the push-fit thingummy at the top.
Step H-3. Here's what the inside of the light cluster looks like with the reverse bulb at the bottom.
Step H-4. Here is the main body of the light cluster showing the inane blue filter which dims the reverse light. It's presumably there to stop red light coming from the red coating over part of the lens - a triumph of form over function. This brings me to mention how to see more when you are reversing, since the reversing light is so feeble. I usually take my foot off the throttle and let the car creep along, but I touch the brake peddle and thus get the brake lights to see by. You may find this necessary with the reversing camera as well since its built-in lights are quite limited in range.
Stage J - Connecting the live cable.
Step J-1. Locate the wire inside the light-unit feed hole and pull it through using a hook or kitchen tongs.
Step J-2. Here is the pulled-through wire.
Step J-3. Trim back the sheath around the cable leading to the connector. Do not cut through any of the wires. On my car the cable for the reverse light is orange. You will need to make sure of the one which leads to your reverse light by tracing the connection through to the bulb. Don't think that a Haynes Guide will help here since the wiring diagram in it doesn't even show the reverse light at all. When you think you have found the correct lead, try seeing if you can test it with a multi-meter or a 12V bulb. You will need to switch the ignition to it's first stop (before starting the engine) and then select reverse gear. Do be careful not to actually start the engine and crash your car!!! However, don't do too much testing this way and end up with a flat battery.
Step J-4. Now for the fiddly connector supplied. It helps if you lever the jaws apart before trying to fit it over the wire.
Stage K - Testing and reassembly. Before reassembly, check that the camera is working. It is easiest to plug the monitor into the accessory socket at the rear side of the car. Now all you need to do is put everything back together again - in the reverse order of taking it apart. Be especially careful with forcing the panels back in place, to ensure that you haven't got the new wire over where any clip / bolt will go.
Stage L - Select where to mount the monitor.
This is up to you but the picture shows one possibility. I recommend trying various places before settling on one and tidying up the wiring. The screen position is critical to its use so try it first with loose-laid wires before finalising its position and power source. Please bear in mind that the right-hand column contains an airbag - so avoid anywhere which could end up with the bag hitting you round the head with the monitor. Also, avoid fiddling around with inserting the wires in the bag's vicinity. I've ended up fitting the monitor on the triangular window on the door. If you don't have a SatNav then you could consider using a vent mount over the silly central air vent. If you have problems with the AUTO-VOX mount's sucker melting, then alcohol is recommended for cleaning it off.

Just a couple of last bits to mention - the view from the camera may show streaks when it is raining - from raindrops close to the camera illuminated by the camera-mounted lights. Also, the flashing blue light on the Ring monitor is very irritating at night - try partially taping over it.

And now, put all the left-over nuts, screws, etc. in an envelope for safe-keeping.

Then let me know if the above helped, or if you found any mistakes (see below).

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Send corrections, comments, enquiries, etc. to Jim Batten